SD-1c — a concentrate of Kodak SD-1 Pyro
Posted: Thu Dec 01, 2016 8:37 am
I found a few years ago that the old Kodak SD-1 Pyro formula gave me just the right image-specific stain for an alternative process project without excessive general stain when I used it carefully. However I never enjoyed weighing out the dry chemicals to mix a batch each time I wanted to develop. It was just enough of an annoyance that I didn't get there often enough.
In an online conversation with Jay DeFehr (formulated 510 Pyro, Hypercat and others) I mentioned how I'd like to divide it into two concentrated solutions and he very generously formulated SD-1c for me.
He replaced the sodium salts with potassium to get higher saturation. An added advantage to the higher concentration this allows is a much longer shelf life of the solutions (years for one 500ml batch I made). I made some concerted tests on a small batch to make sure that the switch of salts didn't result in different color or balance of the image and general stains. I find that if there is a difference it is insignificant. I don't see a difference.
I now use this developer for a variety of image styles, with great pleasure. Having this makes SD-1 as easy to mix as PMK.
SD-1c by Jay DeFehr
A solution
Distilled water 600ml
Sodium sulfite a pinch to preserve the pyro during mixing
Pyro 280g
Potassium metabisulfite 150g
Distilled water to 1 liter
B solution
Distilled water 600ml
*Potassium carbonate (mono) 806 g (689 for anhydrous)
Distilled water to 1 liter
DILUTE 1+1+100 to make a working solution.
*You might need to use hot water to dissolve the carbonate, and make sure it's completely dissolved, and then let it cool slowly and without stirring to avoid precipitation.
For smaller quantities just do the math to scale down. A 100ml batch is a nice way to start, just use 1/10 the quantities.
You can try PMK times to start, with a one stop reduction in ISO.
SD-1 is an old formula using only pyro as the developing agent. That means about a stop loss of speed in the shadows, though midtones and highlights may hold at box speed, depending on the film. Dropped out shadows can be a very compelling look for certain kinds of photography.
Aerial Oxidation
It is also prone to aerial oxidation streaking if you don't work with reasonable care. To limit this, try to mix immediately before use without excessive or vigorous stirring (a few gentle swirls will do with liquids) then pour straight into the tank. Mix a couple hundred milliliters extra so you can fill the tank to the absolute top and remove as much air as possible. Then proceed with 30-second agitation intervals.
This streaking can also easily appear if you use the developer for an alkaline afterbath. Experiment there. A Metaborate solution would probably be better, but as @sanchell notes, that technique may only boost general stain anyway. Use an alkaline fix (I uses Formulary TF-4 or TF-5). I have also added two milliliters of 10% EDTA solution per liter of working developer to reduce aerial oxidation staining. There seems to be a modest effect, though my testing isn't scientific. At the worst there is no other effect on development.
Could this formula be a good addition to the Film Developing Cookbook Steve Anchell?
In an online conversation with Jay DeFehr (formulated 510 Pyro, Hypercat and others) I mentioned how I'd like to divide it into two concentrated solutions and he very generously formulated SD-1c for me.
He replaced the sodium salts with potassium to get higher saturation. An added advantage to the higher concentration this allows is a much longer shelf life of the solutions (years for one 500ml batch I made). I made some concerted tests on a small batch to make sure that the switch of salts didn't result in different color or balance of the image and general stains. I find that if there is a difference it is insignificant. I don't see a difference.
I now use this developer for a variety of image styles, with great pleasure. Having this makes SD-1 as easy to mix as PMK.
SD-1c by Jay DeFehr
A solution
Distilled water 600ml
Sodium sulfite a pinch to preserve the pyro during mixing
Pyro 280g
Potassium metabisulfite 150g
Distilled water to 1 liter
B solution
Distilled water 600ml
*Potassium carbonate (mono) 806 g (689 for anhydrous)
Distilled water to 1 liter
DILUTE 1+1+100 to make a working solution.
*You might need to use hot water to dissolve the carbonate, and make sure it's completely dissolved, and then let it cool slowly and without stirring to avoid precipitation.
For smaller quantities just do the math to scale down. A 100ml batch is a nice way to start, just use 1/10 the quantities.
You can try PMK times to start, with a one stop reduction in ISO.
SD-1 is an old formula using only pyro as the developing agent. That means about a stop loss of speed in the shadows, though midtones and highlights may hold at box speed, depending on the film. Dropped out shadows can be a very compelling look for certain kinds of photography.
Aerial Oxidation
It is also prone to aerial oxidation streaking if you don't work with reasonable care. To limit this, try to mix immediately before use without excessive or vigorous stirring (a few gentle swirls will do with liquids) then pour straight into the tank. Mix a couple hundred milliliters extra so you can fill the tank to the absolute top and remove as much air as possible. Then proceed with 30-second agitation intervals.
This streaking can also easily appear if you use the developer for an alkaline afterbath. Experiment there. A Metaborate solution would probably be better, but as @sanchell notes, that technique may only boost general stain anyway. Use an alkaline fix (I uses Formulary TF-4 or TF-5). I have also added two milliliters of 10% EDTA solution per liter of working developer to reduce aerial oxidation staining. There seems to be a modest effect, though my testing isn't scientific. At the worst there is no other effect on development.
Could this formula be a good addition to the Film Developing Cookbook Steve Anchell?